Hellow guys... very long time not visiting my blogspot. Times has changed, and now people use media social rather than visiting random blogspot. I will reposted all my photos to an IG account.
https://www.instagram.com/gundamshutter
Showing posts with label Gundam Photography. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Gundam Photography. Show all posts
Tuesday, 7 January 2025
Sunday, 28 June 2015
Cleaning SMC Pentax M 50mm f1.4 - Step by Step Documentations
I am going to share something but no gunpla this time. I have Pentax manual camera with interesting lens attached to it. It is Pentax SMC M 50mm f1.4 (or goto Amazon link). The condition is not good as it buried in the library for over 30 years. It is dusty and worst, a sign of fungi inside. In a quick research it is well known that many manual focus lens can still usable with adapter ring to get it attached into modern DSLR body. I am using Canon body and the PK mount (goto Amazon link) adapter needed to get this Pentax lens attached to it.
As a gunpla builder, ehem, it is challenging to try dissembling the lens and that's exactly what I just done. The lens is quite simple actually in term of construction, and if you used to done small parts in gunpla, this looks quite easy. The most challenging part is how to correctly clean up the dissembled lens (there are 7 lens inside) , remove the dust and fungi. As I am only amateur in lens cleaning, DO NOT take this step by step documentations as 100% correct.
The tools I am using :
- screwdriver with correct size
- wet tissue for cleaning the body, lens cleaning cloak for the lens
- lens air blower
- something circular to used as cover opening tool, see step 2
This is my step by step documentation on the process for cleaning , dissembling the SMC Pentax-M 50mm 1:1.4 manual focus lens:
As a gunpla builder, ehem, it is challenging to try dissembling the lens and that's exactly what I just done. The lens is quite simple actually in term of construction, and if you used to done small parts in gunpla, this looks quite easy. The most challenging part is how to correctly clean up the dissembled lens (there are 7 lens inside) , remove the dust and fungi. As I am only amateur in lens cleaning, DO NOT take this step by step documentations as 100% correct.
Dismantling Pentax manual focus lens by gunpla lover
The tools I am using :
- screwdriver with correct size
- wet tissue for cleaning the body, lens cleaning cloak for the lens
- lens air blower
- something circular to used as cover opening tool, see step 2
This is my step by step documentation on the process for cleaning , dissembling the SMC Pentax-M 50mm 1:1.4 manual focus lens:
step 1, you'll need to open the cover in front of the lens
Friday, 20 February 2015
Gunpla + Light Painting Photography
Gunpla with light painting tricks? Awesome...
tags: light painting photography, fireworks gunpla, steel wool gunpla, steelwool photography, long exposure
I use electrical grinder as the light sources. Fireworks will failed you because it will immediately produced smokes.
Gundam Blue Destiny and its shield is a better composition
Gundam Blue Destiny Unit 2 in action light painting
the close up and the details
brutal fire shower, Bandai's plastic is strong enough to stand the heat
HGBF Gundam X Maoh
X Maoh under the storm
tags: light painting photography, fireworks gunpla, steel wool gunpla, steelwool photography, long exposure
Sunday, 1 February 2015
G-Exes Jackedge Photos Review
G-Exes Jackedge BMS-004 by Bandai
1/144 HG - AGE - Buy it Here
This unit from Gundam AGE timeline is pretty badass in looking. Yet, G-Exes Jackedge is hard to photograph. Obviously due to its dark color. His rough facial design make the posing also problematic. You need to always give him jackass posing otherwise it will look out of pose.
On the review, this is a simple gunpla unit which great in balance. Articulation is acceptable and can do lot of posing. The torso join between upper body seems a bit loose but not a major problem. Btw, the unit cost in pretty low price, which is good for beginner to try out. Pay attention to the cutting marks, since the color is dark, the mark can be very visible.
I try several poses and these are what selected. Room available light and one single spot light. Enjoy.
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1/144 HG - AGE - Buy it Here
This unit from Gundam AGE timeline is pretty badass in looking. Yet, G-Exes Jackedge is hard to photograph. Obviously due to its dark color. His rough facial design make the posing also problematic. You need to always give him jackass posing otherwise it will look out of pose.
On the review, this is a simple gunpla unit which great in balance. Articulation is acceptable and can do lot of posing. The torso join between upper body seems a bit loose but not a major problem. Btw, the unit cost in pretty low price, which is good for beginner to try out. Pay attention to the cutting marks, since the color is dark, the mark can be very visible.
I try several poses and these are what selected. Room available light and one single spot light. Enjoy.
side lightning is pretty much giving more details to its badass facial design
G-Exes Jackedge trademark weaponry
Friday, 2 January 2015
Wing Gundam Ver Ka
Enjoy this photo shot of Wing Gundam ver. Ka.
Buy It Here
Bandai 1/100 Wing Gundam ver. Ka
Master Grade
Buy It Here
Bandai 1/100 Wing Gundam ver. Ka
Master Grade
Model Built by: H3ri-m3nk
Tuesday, 11 November 2014
A-Law GNX-704T Ahead in Light Box Photos
New photo session and photo review for GNX-704T in light box. Model is in High Grade.
I love the red color which shine smoothly rendered with the lightning.
Enjoy.
You can see my other photos using this gunpla unit
buy this gunpla unit HERE at Amazon
tags: gundam photography, gundam light box, gunpla lightning technique, gundam 00 earth sphere federation elite forces, アヘッド スマルトãƒãƒ³ (機動戦士ガンダム00)
I love the red color which shine smoothly rendered with the lightning.
Enjoy.
Ahead GNX-704T
from Gundam 00, A-law elite mobile suit
manufactured by Earth Sphere Federation's
gunpla by Bandai 1/144 HG GNX-704T Ahead
taken via Canon 650D, 50mm lens, about f2.2 and speed at 1/100
single light from above
You can see my other photos using this gunpla unit
buy this gunpla unit HERE at Amazon
tags: gundam photography, gundam light box, gunpla lightning technique, gundam 00 earth sphere federation elite forces, アヘッド スマルトãƒãƒ³ (機動戦士ガンダム00)
Saturday, 22 June 2013
Gundam Blue Destiny - Single Flash Light
Taking a new photo of my Gundam Blue Destiny. Taken using DSLR Canon EOS 650D and the lighting scenes is only via one external flash, put in different places.
Blue Destiny appeared on Universal Century timeline, from the game "Mobile Suit Gundam Side Story"
I like this background, it produced a nice matte reflections
I have posted earlier photo shoot with Gundam Blue Destiny, here
tags: Gunpla, 1/144 scale, Universal Century Side Story.
Photograph by @jullbei
Wednesday, 19 June 2013
Gundam in LOMO styles - Strike GAT-X105 and F91
Here two of my old photos, still taken only via pocket camera. I try to resembling the LOMO (Lomography) style. Without the fisheye lens of course. But I added screen line , change the color balance into green and yellow-ish, then dimmed the light in elliptical shape.
The models are Gundam Strike GAT-X105 and F91 in Master Grade scale. Hope you enjoy it.
The models are Gundam Strike GAT-X105 and F91 in Master Grade scale. Hope you enjoy it.
1280 x 800 LOMO Gundam artworks - Gundam F91 couple in actions
1280 x 800 resolution - couple of Gundam Strike GAT-X105 and Strike Noir GAT-X105E photo edit
tags: lomo still life, photography gunpla , photoshop gundam
buy it here from Amazon
Saturday, 29 October 2011
Brief Tips to Gundam Close up Photography
This guide aims for Gunpla hobbyist that new to DSLR camera and photography.
UPDATED: Feb 2014
BACKDROP
A nice background is required, whether only a white canvas, or a nice pattern that can looks awesome when zoomed up in close up. A nice backdrop will saved you times to clean up via photoshop. In Gundam photography, the background usually will dictate what is your overall theme. This can be only a flat white color background with emphasizes only to the model, or a thematic one such as a war theme.
LIGHT BOX
Those who enjoy creating diorama for your gunplas will have no trouble creating a simple light box for photography purposes. Here some of images that can give your inspirations:
LIGHTNING
Lightning is the most important aspect on your photos. For a quick tips, a bounced light is preferred since it will show 3D dimensional of the object better. Usually on your camera, flash light is your default setup. This is not so great since it is only give brightness but dull in recreating 3D dimensional of the model (see illustration below 'Frontal Flash Light'). In a "studio" setting, lightning can be arranged to face one directional to the Gunpla. This is also related to the pose we want to created and composed the lightning effects for that pose. Then there were color of the light. A white matte light create the most neutral effect.
APERTURE
This is the technical thingy that has no strict guideline.
In common language, aperture is how large the lens to open. Quick fact, just see the f-number on your camera, the 'smallest' the f number the effect will be the more small area of focus your photo going to produced. This mean it will create a nice blur or 'bokeh' background for many unwanted background. On the disadvantage side, the smallest f-number, the more difficult to get your object focus, so be careful. The other thing to consider is your distance of camera and model and model to background, most usually you will need to stay in distance between one meter to as close as 30 cm. Aperture f-number setting will get complicated when you also play on this distance factor, so experiment your self. A quick setting, with distance of camera about 70cm to 40 cm to object, and about more than three meter background:
- f 8 and above will give you a panorama view, with mostly all object stay in focus
- f 8 to f 4 will give you a good overall focus on all model but already blurred out the background
- f 4 and smaller will give you extreme focus on one spot, even able to blurred out the other parts of model
biggest fact: the smallest the f-number the brighter your photo is, the opposite applied
SHUTTER SPEED
Another technical aspect is a Shutter Speed. This is how fast your lens to open and close, it is done by stating how many second the camera need to open the shutter, for example from 1/200 second to 1 second speed. Since Gundam is a still object, then the shutter speed usually did not come in much effect. We can fix the shutter speed accordingly to the need of light. Why, because the faster the shutter speed the darker the photos and the slower the shutter speed the brighter we get. When come to the need to put shutter speed below 1/60 second, I will suggest to use tripod to avoid handshake. Gundam is a small object and a slight motion blur will come in effect to ruin the pictures. Tips, the only handy good use to play with shutter speed is when we need a moving effect background to sweetened the pictures.
POSE
And yet again, posing the Gundam model is the biggest aspect of fun in Gundam photography. Unlike a human pretty model who can pose as you wish, in Gundam we need to "manually" create it. When creating the pose, referred to a photograph. See how the anatomical related when you create certain posture, mean don't use a non realistic pose with a hand and body not realistically connected.
Use the effect of gravity, that is a weapon holding should give the hand a little bit "heavy" stuff around. Use dramatic "time freezing" pose, like a jumping or fighting pose. The quality of Gundam recommended is a HG above, and I assume you who read this will have the knowledge on Gundam grade. When I collected a Gunpla, the most enjoyable factor is they able to pose as I wish, this make the different between fixed action figure and Gundam.
LENS
Finally one more equipment you need to take care. Shooting Gundam is similar in shooting portrait plus a bit of macro element. To shoot your Gunpla, you will most probably need a fixed lens / close up lens or fancily also called 'prime' lens. A quick tips, get the one with 50mm, 85mm and above, because we are shooting small object so it will zoom out. Not too recommend is, to use wider fix lens such as 40mm or below. The fixed lens usually already come with required f-number we need, as in f1.8 or even below. You rarely can go beyond that 'f-number' when using non prime lens. With this, as discussed in 'Aperture' section, you can get a nice "bokeh" background effect.
Lastly get a specific macro lens. With magnification of 1:1, you can give your Perfect Grade Gundam a zoom photos, showing details of his face.
On this guide, I mainly only use Canon EF 50mm lens together with Canon 650D. Canon 650D is entry level DSLR camera for beginner. Both camera and lens are in affordable prices.
Have funs....
Gundamshutter recommend entry level DSLR camera, Canon 100D and Canon 700D. For Nikon it will be Nikon d3200.
UPDATED: Feb 2014
BACKDROP
A nice background is required, whether only a white canvas, or a nice pattern that can looks awesome when zoomed up in close up. A nice backdrop will saved you times to clean up via photoshop. In Gundam photography, the background usually will dictate what is your overall theme. This can be only a flat white color background with emphasizes only to the model, or a thematic one such as a war theme.
a standard white backdrop, a pattern backdrop and an outdoor background done with nice 'bokeh'
Those who enjoy creating diorama for your gunplas will have no trouble creating a simple light box for photography purposes. Here some of images that can give your inspirations:
a cabinet with white surfaces wall will do!
electronic interior will also do!, you can check my photos using this kind of background, here.
LIGHTNING
Lightning is the most important aspect on your photos. For a quick tips, a bounced light is preferred since it will show 3D dimensional of the object better. Usually on your camera, flash light is your default setup. This is not so great since it is only give brightness but dull in recreating 3D dimensional of the model (see illustration below 'Frontal Flash Light'). In a "studio" setting, lightning can be arranged to face one directional to the Gunpla. This is also related to the pose we want to created and composed the lightning effects for that pose. Then there were color of the light. A white matte light create the most neutral effect.
A Frontal Flash Light usually give a flat portrait, even worse a shadow may occured
Lightning from Side and Top are much preferred since it will give more 3D effects to the portrait
and for Backlight, unlike in human portrait where we can get a nice hairlight, there is not much in effect in Gundam photography except it will created a nice silhoutte
APERTURE
This is the technical thingy that has no strict guideline.
In common language, aperture is how large the lens to open. Quick fact, just see the f-number on your camera, the 'smallest' the f number the effect will be the more small area of focus your photo going to produced. This mean it will create a nice blur or 'bokeh' background for many unwanted background. On the disadvantage side, the smallest f-number, the more difficult to get your object focus, so be careful. The other thing to consider is your distance of camera and model and model to background, most usually you will need to stay in distance between one meter to as close as 30 cm. Aperture f-number setting will get complicated when you also play on this distance factor, so experiment your self. A quick setting, with distance of camera about 70cm to 40 cm to object, and about more than three meter background:
- f 8 to f 4 will give you a good overall focus on all model but already blurred out the background
- f 4 and smaller will give you extreme focus on one spot, even able to blurred out the other parts of model
biggest fact: the smallest the f-number the brighter your photo is, the opposite applied
Another technical aspect is a Shutter Speed. This is how fast your lens to open and close, it is done by stating how many second the camera need to open the shutter, for example from 1/200 second to 1 second speed. Since Gundam is a still object, then the shutter speed usually did not come in much effect. We can fix the shutter speed accordingly to the need of light. Why, because the faster the shutter speed the darker the photos and the slower the shutter speed the brighter we get. When come to the need to put shutter speed below 1/60 second, I will suggest to use tripod to avoid handshake. Gundam is a small object and a slight motion blur will come in effect to ruin the pictures. Tips, the only handy good use to play with shutter speed is when we need a moving effect background to sweetened the pictures.
shutter speed set at 10 second and we can created a nice 'light painting', the creativity is unlimited
POSE
And yet again, posing the Gundam model is the biggest aspect of fun in Gundam photography. Unlike a human pretty model who can pose as you wish, in Gundam we need to "manually" create it. When creating the pose, referred to a photograph. See how the anatomical related when you create certain posture, mean don't use a non realistic pose with a hand and body not realistically connected.
Use the effect of gravity, that is a weapon holding should give the hand a little bit "heavy" stuff around. Use dramatic "time freezing" pose, like a jumping or fighting pose. The quality of Gundam recommended is a HG above, and I assume you who read this will have the knowledge on Gundam grade. When I collected a Gunpla, the most enjoyable factor is they able to pose as I wish, this make the different between fixed action figure and Gundam.
A High Grade model will sufficient to create you a desirable posture
A Master or Perfect Grade will give you the most posture to enjoy
LENS
Finally one more equipment you need to take care. Shooting Gundam is similar in shooting portrait plus a bit of macro element. To shoot your Gunpla, you will most probably need a fixed lens / close up lens or fancily also called 'prime' lens. A quick tips, get the one with 50mm, 85mm and above, because we are shooting small object so it will zoom out. Not too recommend is, to use wider fix lens such as 40mm or below. The fixed lens usually already come with required f-number we need, as in f1.8 or even below. You rarely can go beyond that 'f-number' when using non prime lens. With this, as discussed in 'Aperture' section, you can get a nice "bokeh" background effect.
Lastly get a specific macro lens. With magnification of 1:1, you can give your Perfect Grade Gundam a zoom photos, showing details of his face.
On this guide, I mainly only use Canon EF 50mm lens together with Canon 650D. Canon 650D is entry level DSLR camera for beginner. Both camera and lens are in affordable prices.
Have funs....
Gundamshutter recommend entry level DSLR camera, Canon 100D and Canon 700D. For Nikon it will be Nikon d3200.
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